Chevere y divino

Good afternoon my sweet loves. I´mreporting from La Mona´s Casa Jardin Zen (House and Garden of Zen), curled up like a lucky kitty on a big, white sofa on her backdoor, open patio. I´m beneath a tall overhang that meets the green valley beneath like a Cathedral. The house is built 100% of Guadua (bamboo) and the beams to my left are dressed in vines as natural, stunning drapes pulled back to frame an infinitely open window. We are just on the edge of the city of Armenia in the state of Quindio, perched on a plot of land that has been in Jorge´s family for nearly half a century. It used to be a coffee farm, but Martha Isabel (Jorge´s sister known as ¨La Mona¨) realized her vision of a house ¨about balance and harmony with nature.¨She built and now runs this boutique hotel who´s constant flow seeks equilibrium. And that it does! The house truly is a sactuary- with big, stone halls, wooden stairways supported by a tree trunk,, natural wood beams, and sunlight filling every inch. There are so many windows and glass walls that it´s impossible to distinguish outside from in. Completely, divinely organic. The house immulates serenity and allows both mind and spirit to rest. The gardins within and around the home have no apparant beginning nor end. The soft, green grass carpets stairways and winding paths all the way down the valley. Carefully tended plants sprinkle the edges of paths calling me to follow them. Endless cross-roads that promise surpirse: A grand forest of yellow bamboo, a spider web I must carefully step over, radient heliconias, or a pond emerging from the arms of smoothe, piled rocks. Everything in and of this breathtaking fortress is art. It´s as timelss as the Andes at arms´ reach and just as sturdy.Last night La Mona hosted a dinner party for Nanda, their family friend who just returned home from a 5 week stay in South Africa. The wine flowed, the bonfire sparked, the good cheer kept pace with the relay of tangy, spinach and cilantro soup, chicken salad, and ¨tres leches¨keylime-macadamia pie. The bread and smooth, yellow butter came to supper- and to breakfast with a perfect pancake, boutiful honey and fruit.La Mona gave me the best room in the house for a couple of days leave from the Finca (farm). A band of croaking frogs lulled me into a deep sleep and a symphany of birds brought me into a new day. My room is on the top level with 2 glass walls creating a corner. French doors swing out to a balcony, allowing the wind to kiss skin not wrapped in silky down covers. It´s like sleeping in a giant, luxurious treehouse in the middle of the jungle (with a steamy hot shower!). I´m thankful for this honeymoon with my soul, for the kindness that constantly refills my cup, and for this storybook romance with Colombia. ÇEvery day is better than the last. Every day is the best day ofmy life (a mantra I try to live by seems effortless here)!

Day 3 of our motorcycle journey from Ecuador was a success! 10.5 hours on the road for our final stretch with a total of 1280 kilometers covered. The sun shown down on us as we cruised through the valley. The heavens welcomed us into Armennia. Blues and violets, magentas and golds as wthe sun set behind us and painted the sky in front of us like the horse of many colors (The Wizard of Oz). The clouds gave way to ¨el nevado de Tullima¨ (a snow-capped peak in the neighboring ¨departamento¨ that is rarely uncovered) and we even had to stop to watch the hot pink rain fall from the heavens in the distance. Silloettes of tall palm trees and sugar cane fields gave a delicious foreground to our buena vista. I could hardly stand it we were so close to the farm. Any minute now, we´d turn off of the main avenue onto a dirt, bumby path and follow signs to ¨Betica¨. Just as the clouds parted for the snowey peak and the pink rain, the caretaker met us at the entrance gate with a smile and it seemed all doors were open.
Betica Farm is divine. I´ve spent this week getting aquainted with Macadamia trees, coffee beans, strange fruits, honey bees and flocks of ¨loros¨(parrots) amongst other singing companions. The sky is big and the space is vast. We are living pretty ¨green¨with our own water well and rain reserve, our own coffee (the best I´ve ever had), our own honey (from the macadamia flower), mountains and mountains of macadamia nuts (producing maca

damia butter, granola, pesto, icecream and more), fresh eggs and a generator in case the city lights go out. It´s simple living at its finest. When I´m not getting stung trying to steal the honey or taking down a spoonful of honey and cinnamon, I´m learning the secrets of farming and getting the crop ready for selling or giving :) I´ve aquired some books in Spanish and am constantly learning new vocabulary. I listen carefully because Colombian Spanish is the easiest onthe ear. I´m learning to walk slower, to eat slower, to take in the simplest of beauty around me.
This morning I had the great pleasure of speaking to an English class at the Armenia State University. I was asked to share my ¨story¨ of my Spanish language education, teaching Spanish, studying and traveling abroad, sailing as well as my plans after Colombia. The students ranging from 17-20 years old were beautiful and attentive. They smiled and were curious, asking questions and speaking clearly and confidently in English. At the end of my talk, I was asked to share my dream. I did. And then I got to ask them theirs. As they went around the room, one-by-one sharing where they wanted to travel and what they wanted to see, their eyes grew bright with promise.

I can´t wait to tell you more of this exchange but for now I´m off to pilates and a night at Vivero Bar.

EVOL

¡Hola Colombia!

Day 1, and I´m in love! Colombia is crazy beautiful. I´ve never seen any land so rich, fertile, colorful and green! My smile´s bigger than a bright orange, harvest moon as I try my best to give you an update. My hands are dancing across the keyboard as I jitter with excitement. There just doesn´t seem to be any chance that I could squeeze in all the details of this journey into one, teensy tiny sitting. A lot of time has lapsed since my last post. I haven´t even written about Canoa, a perfect surf town on the Ecuadorian coast that I recently found myself "stuck" in. I went for the day and stayed for 10. That´s to be continued. For now, here is the skinny on the life of your Pacific Princess:
I´m on a motorcycle tour traveling from Ecuador to Colombia with 2 friends from the yacht club, Jorge and Alvaro. Upòn discovery of my desire to travel throughout South America, they offered to take me with them on their bikes from Bahia de Caraquez (where Jorge´s Catamaran as well as Victoria are anchored) to their hometown of Armenia which is nestled in the central branch of the Andes mountains. They knew that if I headed south towards Peru, I would never get to see their beautiful country that so many overlook. I slept on the idea for a couple weeks, gathering both facts and opinions on the safety of the adventure, and ultimately knew it was for me, my only way. Before I knew it, I was traveling "home" from Canoa to Bahia in order to take off with the guys the following morning. All of a sudden, I was the new kid at school with butterflies in my tummy and excitement in my bones. With only a few short cruises on my dad´s Harley and a couple test runs with Jorge under my belt, this was unknown territory.
Our 7 am rendezvous on Thursday morning came quick with Kim and Pierre, the boys and I all hustling in the boat to get ready for our big day. They boys were back to SCHOOL and in full uniform after a long holiday weekend in Baños and I was following through with a crazy yet all together perfectly reasonable plan. By this time in the game, Kim and Pierre were both wishing they could come and Thomas and Patrick were grinning big (we´d spent many a´day on deck brainstorming the infinite possibilities of travel). This wasn´t exactly catching a wild horse, taming it and riding it across China, but nevertheless they were proud of their older cousin. I only wish I could´ve seen their faces when Pierre and Kim recalled the get-up Jorge and Alvaro presented me for the ride: black, padded pants, big black jacket, goggles, HELMOT (purchased the day before and only a southern belle gets away with sporting a ¨maple camo¨, silver crome-detailed ¨cosco¨), and ¨guantes¨(gloves). At least half of our Puerto Amistad community was there to see me off, feeling like I was going onto the set of a movie. Hello Lara Croft :) We snapped some photos, hugged goodbye and sped away. We were doing it. I was there. There was no looking back. In Pierre´s words, and I concur, this trip would be life defining. In many ways, the possibility of traveling with Jorge and Alvaro across Ecuador and into the mysterious Colombia stirred my courage. Some family and friends cheered and others worried, but spinning away with Jorge and Alvaro on that promising morning was a decision all my own. It came mostly from my wild heart and fearless spirit.
I never even knew fear until yesterday. It feels like it´s been ages since I was huffing and puffing as a woman in labor and SCARED SHITLESS (ear muffs). Surely I´d never be scared of anything if I got off of this really fast horse alive. I´ll spare details for now- but the day did get better when I broke out Coldplay on my ipod and started to look around at the spectacular scene. The juicy ¨oro miel¨ (gold honey) pinapples and sweet bananas in my stomach from a roadside market gave me a 2nd wind that carried us up into the coulds as we climbed the Andes. Through the mist, I caught a glimpse of a giant face sculpted into the side of a rocky cliff. Waterfalls poured before me and deep, green canyons whirled around me as if in a dream. We finally reached Ibarra, Ecuador after about 400 km along our route where we discovered our night´s delight: Hacienda Chorlavi. Again like a child, I was awestruck by this old, perfect farm converted into a hotel. It once was even a monestary. The grounds were stunning, with secret-garden like plazas surrounding. Overgrown paths, brilliant flowers, hammocks, covered bridges, lanterns, ceramic tiled roofs and big shady trees gave us a grand palace to call home. Inside we found tables set, the fire blazing, an open terrace and rooms and rooms filled with gorgeous antiques just waiting for our presence! Very Spanish. We were treated as royalty. Breakfast was even finer than supper and Grandma would´ve been proud of the setting. The sun-lit table overflowed with watermelon, guayaba, eggs, homemade bread, yogurt, juices and coffee. While the boys secured our bags on the motos, I made my way one last time through the grounds, capturing every last ounce of beauty that I could on my camara so that I can share it with you soon.
So this romance continued into a successful, amazing Day 2 of 3 on the road in route to Jorge´s ¨finca¨ (farm). I´m so much more relaxed and comfortable now. I´m actually beginning to love the curves and the bends in and out of the Andes. The joking is endless regarding this transition. Today we finally reached the Ecuador-Colombia border. We celebrated as we made the rounds to the Immigration offices on either side to get all stamped and official. Jorge and Alvaro were finally in their homeland and I was finally going to touch this much anticipated soil. I was truly amazed as we rolled under the welcome sign ¨Bienvenidos a Colombia¨. The land just kept getting greener and the mountains more grand and vast. Surprises were endless. All was foreign. All was familiar.

Twas on this leg today that my eyes filled up with the most glorious sight! Perhaps the most beautiful lands of my life along this rich and dynamic valley. It struck like the ¨Going-to-the-Sun¨ Road in Glacier National Park, but it never ended. Unlike our protected park, this sacred space was inhabited with people, laced with neatly drawn out farmlands and bustling with animals. There were waterfalls shooting out of every rocky wall and a big, white river flowing far beneath. I couldn´t help but to kick myself for not having packed my fly rod and wondering what kind of ¨trucha¨ (trout) swam below. Within the valley, sharp mountain peaks stood tall to greet us and bright flowers of all shades met us, too. There were horsies and big cows, pigs and lots of puppy dogs. Families walked together, farmers worked the land and Indians dressed in their colorful, traditional clothes took be back in time.

I´m far too spent to write, but enjoy the highlights of Day 2:

-Stopping to see the famous Lajas Sanctuary
-Sitting atop a perfectly soft and white, fluffy llama that was dressed in colorful, traditional garb and even wearing a sombrero
-Taking in the magestic wilderness
-Eating guinea pig for lunch or ¨Cuy¨, Alvaro´s favorite... A traditional and precious dish of the Indians in southern region Colombia
-Rolling through a typical, colorful Colombian town where all of the houses were painted bright with 

detailed patterns and designs

-Seeing a huge crowd of people in black walking towards me and then realizing we were right in the middle of a funeral gathering. The men of the family carried the coffon up high a few feet away from us as they marched towards the church. There was something very sacred about witnessing this. People wept. I could identify with death. I decided right then and there that I don´t want anyone wearing black at my funeral. Bright Colors, por fa!
-Giving thanks for the opportunity to travel with Jorge and Alvaro, 2 very fine gentlemen who are taking great care of me! I affectionately refer to them as my angels!

-Noting that this route is normal for my friends, but exotic for me or anyone not from Colombia to experience. Jorge and Alvaro reminding me that it is extremely rare for a foreigner to be on this spectacular route of the

 Panamerican Highway- especially on a motorcycle because for many years it has been unsafe due to guerillas. I know I´m lucky and truly living with every last bit of wind upon my back.
-Celebrating my brother Hartford´s birthday! I gave ém one to be proud of and wish him love!
-Sleeping like a baby after these long days full of adventure!

Sending love along with Aguardiente Nariño (after dinner drink), Macadamias (we´ll reach Jorge´s Macadamia farm tomorrow) and Champu (a tasty smoothie with a corn base made with fruit native to this region of Colombia),

Catherine

Tin Fiddles and Mexican Trains

Buenos Dias mis amores! It's another beautiful day in Bahia. A little overcast this morning as the sun hasn't quite broken through in all its glory. We're blessed with a little shade on these "winter", warm days. This morning we rose early just like every morning but with a specific task at hand! Kim and I spent all of yesterday afternoon taping edges, romoving hardware, sanding wood and wiping down the boat in preparation for varnishing. Today we got started with the brushes, feathering back on every stroke to make the golden wood glow. Bikini clad with KT Tunsall's voice pouring through the speakers, I enjoyed getting my hands dirty and adding my unique touch to Victoria. After all, I have to earn my keep!

As the birds chirp and sing around me in this open space, I reflect on the past few days as well as those to come.

-The boy's first soccer match! It was on Saturday and held at the "Estadio grade". The boys were jumping with excitement and the whole family piled in a taxi to take us to this historic event! All of their miniature teammates were so precious in their white t-shirts and cleats. No shin guards necessary. Kim and I warmed up with them before the coach and the other team arrived (90 kids drove 4 hours from the coastal town of Esmeraldas to play). We sat way up high in the professional venue to get the best shade and the best view. Lush, green mountains and a big, Carolina blue sky cradled the field below. The coach let Thomas and Patrick start! Kim and Pierre were initially horified. The last time they saw the boys practice, they spent their time on the field catching bugs and twirling their hair, completely oblivious to the game. I assured them that their boys were fine and kept emphasizing the importance of having fun. To our delight, Patrick and Thomas got a few touches on the ball, hustled and held their own as first-time defenders. I smiled on as I observed them dodging that ball right in front of the goal and struggling to understand body language in a foreign world. They were so brave out there getting their first taste of fierce competition and using hand signals to break through the Spanish barrier. At times it was as if I was looking upon myself and my own growth as an athlete, a bilingual gal and a student of life!

-Getting to know my Colombian friends Alvero and Jorge and seriously considering riding with them to Colombia on the back of a motorcycle. The thought of entering such a mystical country that most travelers never see on the back of a bike steals my heart! Our very own "Diarios de la motocicleta" (Che Guevara) with two trusty, personal guides. We would cruise through the Andean countryside, stopping at historical sites and make our way to Armenia, thier quaint Mountain town where Jorge has a "Finca" (farm) growing everything from Macademia trees to coffee plants. Colombia calls me to know its riches and its people. The lingering risks to the country's unstable political state and corruption gives me reason to meditate on the decision. It may be life defining and inevitably one confronting fear. The guys are currently sailing in Salinas, an island off of the Ecuadorian coast for another week so I have time to gather my heart's desires before they return. I'm open to your advice. We took the "motos" out for a test run a few nights ago. Riding into the sunset, I knew that it was a part of my destiny. I'll continue to fantasize about getting my own bike one day making tracks down wild city streets as well as overgrown, lost paths. Any takers?

-My first dance lesson with "China", my best local girlfriend who tends the bar at the yacht club. We crossed the river to get to San Vicente where we found a lone and lively, cabana discotec resounding in Salsa and techno beats with a group of equally ambitious patrons. Alvero and Jorge joined us beneath the multi-colored disco balls in our all too hillarious attempt to feel the music and let it seep through our bones. I needed some time to acclemate to the fluidity and sensuality of the culture. China and I went back and forth as I mimicked her movement and grew more confident with every song and every chilled sip of Pilsner cerveza. As we walked into the cool night breeze, Alvaro told me that most Americans move stiff but that I was like a snake. I'm 100% sure that he was dilusional. But I smiled nevertheless, satisfied with the lights of Bahia getting closer with the extended hum of our midnight ferry.

-Stopping by the Colegio Immaculada (the Catholic school) to meet Thomas and Patrick's new teachers and class and get them their books and uniforms. The whole school was like walking into a giant atrium. Flora and fauna entertwined with concrete paths with benches, a rose garden and a big blacktop for recess. Kim, Pierre and I beamed as Sunny, the boy's 5th grade teacher took them in her arms and presented them to the entire, giggling and curious class. The girls wore white, nautical dresses like little sailers and the boys donned white short-sleeved oxford shirts with a little patch on the front pocket. This too summoned feelings of pride and nostalgia. I've been in their shoes and couldn't be more excited for their upcoming adventure and special first day, TOMORROW! Best of all, while at the school I had the great honor of meeting Mother Superior. The Nun in charge of it all. She had an aura of holiness and the most gentle and knowing smile I've ever seen. I wasn't the only one who felt this. Pierre exclaimed, she's like out of a movie! Kim and I are already talking about inviting her over to the boat for cocktails.

-Fruity indulgences on every corner. The hot days are broken up with ice-cold banana smoothies for only 75 cents. Sometimes I have to get 2. I enjoy every sip, strolling as slowly as possible along the oceanfront sidewalk, stopping to enhale and exhale with the waves. I'll then find a bench for reading and writing in my journal. A minute may pass before I'm greated with a curious passerby and lost in conversation. I have to watch out for the old men. They always try to sneak kisses on the lips when greating and departing. It's impossible to avoid and always leaves me blushing.

More to come! I'm off for a lunch date!

Tennis for the lady

Good morning! How art thou? I´m glowing with salty sweat and the remnants of black goo from Pierre´s racket grip. I guess I´m just so hot I made it melt. We started off this glorious day with a round of doubles: Kim and I paired up with local pros, Maria Helena and Don Julio. It was awesome, getting lose and bouncing on my toes in the tropical scene. We were hardly into the first set when I noticed my hands, chest and face were covered with dark traces of war. After our match, Maria Helena toured us around the cape. We learned of the local surf, abundance of fresh shrimp and ceviche and were led to the Bahia Tennis Club.

Some big decisions have been made and there´s excitement in the air. Pierre and Kim have decided to live here and put the boys in school so that they can learn Spanish. The first day of classes is this Monday, so we haven´t any time to loose! We´re always out and about exploring and getting a better feel for the daily life. We are all so happy here and there is such an amazing vibe in the fresh air. The boys are thrilled to put homeschooling on hold and start making friends. They have their second futbol practice this afternoon at 3 and are begging to please not go to the Catholic school where nuns will snap their fingers with rulers. We´re all giddy and with their decision, I´ve been carefully unfolding a wild one of my own.

Calling the big, mean Oso now to share my news and will let you know what we decide. Sending sunshine and huge bicepts.

THE EQUATOR.

Reporting live from the breezy yacht club of Puerto Amistad. It's Wednesday (movie night) and much to my dismay, the majority chose to watch The Bourne Identity. My heart was set on Camino Revolucionario, the new feature starring Kate Winslet and the all too dreamy Leonardo Dicaprio. I'm a Titanic fan and so very romantic, so go figure. Letting my shoulders drop and breathing deeply, I feel good. After all, I have been delighting in the house sangria and speaking in Spanish all evening to a jolly good fellow from the South of France. This open aired gathering place set on the sea feels like home in just 3 days. Everything about it is merry and welcoming, easy and tranquilo. There are hammock swings and casual dining tables, a garden and small dance floor and a full, gorgeous bar built of bamboo and natural stones. The staff and cruisers make one big, eclectic familia. There's an abundance of camaraderie, fascinating stories, and wild ideas.

Before giving away all my Bahia secrets, I wish to give you a little more insight as to our passage. I've saved the best for last: our epic celebration on the EQUATOR! For days we anticipated the party. Tio Pierre, our salty Captain taught me that sailing is a world full of superstitions as well as traditions that may bring good or bad luck at sea. You should never change a boats name, for example. However no one could recall the exact protocol for passing over the equator. We were left to our own devices and with two little boys in charge, we couldn't have been in better hands. Patrick and Thomas decided we should all transform into greek gods and goddesses. Thomas was Zeus, Patrick became Apollo, Kim assumed the powers of Athena, Pierre inevitably was King Neptune and I was Aphrodite. We crowned ourselves with aluminum foil and dressed as mythically as our cabins allowed. Kim and I wrapped up in our colorful, Kuna Indian sarongs. Suddenly belt ropes were warrior head dresses and drift wood was the perfect trident for Poseidon. At about 9 AM we were there- at the EqUAtOr and we were ready! I presented necklaces for everyone made with shells, rocks and coral that I'd found in the Perlas. We couldn't believe the water!!! Blue and still as far as the eye could see. We took turns leaping off of the bowsprit and swam in this endless, refreshing pool. We laughed, splashed, snapped pictures, and beckoned shy dolphins to come closer. We sat there for hours, basking in silliness. The boys called for everyone to do an act to demonstrate their immortal strengths. The whole thing was sheer madness and belly wrenching giggles. The perfect morning continued with plates overflowing with fluffy, french toast hot off the gimble stove: a breakfast feast fit for Aphrodite herself! Alas while perched on the end of the 6ft bowsprit, I spotted land! South America was in reach and we'd be in Cabo Pasado by dusk.