Tuesday, March 31
MY MERMAID COMPLEX.
Ah, my loved ones. It's been amazing getting all of your updates and love now that I'm once again connected to you through this weird thing called the internet. I made it! Our passage here from the Perlas Islands was smooth as butter and sweet as nutella. I would know. We have a saturday chocolate-chip pancake ritual aboard Victoria and I shant make it through a night 'watch' without a spoonful of sugar (peanut butter and nutella, my addiction).
Pierre, Kim, and the boys attest to the fact that their Lord Nelson 41 has never seen happier days at sea. The barf bowl stayed in its "locker" and meals were prepared in our cozy galley without any major burns or spills. The tranquil water got more calm as we approached the Equator. Gently we rolled through a belt of wind known as the Doldrums. Cruising through mirrors of metallic blues, I now know an oblivion. And it just kept getting better. Time stopped but we just kept going, sometimes at a record speed of 1- 2 knots. We felt no hurry out there in the middle of Earth with no one else for miles and miles so the motor rested and our sails carried us slowly but surely southward on a course of 180 degrees. Piper sailed in tandem with us the entire passage to Ecuador. The mast light of our friends aglow in the vast darkness at 3 am as well as that faint white speck of sails on the horizon in daylight gave us a sense of comfort and safety. Our rendezvous point with Piper was near the town of Esmeralda in the Perlas. Before I continue, I must tell you of Esmeralda. For that visit, just as most every experience of this trip, changed my life.
Pierre, Kim, and the boys attest to the fact that their Lord Nelson 41 has never seen happier days at sea. The barf bowl stayed in its "locker" and meals were prepared in our cozy galley without any major burns or spills. The tranquil water got more calm as we approached the Equator. Gently we rolled through a belt of wind known as the Doldrums. Cruising through mirrors of metallic blues, I now know an oblivion. And it just kept getting better. Time stopped but we just kept going, sometimes at a record speed of 1- 2 knots. We felt no hurry out there in the middle of Earth with no one else for miles and miles so the motor rested and our sails carried us slowly but surely southward on a course of 180 degrees. Piper sailed in tandem with us the entire passage to Ecuador. The mast light of our friends aglow in the vast darkness at 3 am as well as that faint white speck of sails on the horizon in daylight gave us a sense of comfort and safety. Our rendezvous point with Piper was near the town of Esmeralda in the Perlas. Before I continue, I must tell you of Esmeralda. For that visit, just as most every experience of this trip, changed my life.
When I learned we would be going to a small town in the middle of the Perlas, I was ecstatic. For some reason, I envisioned a Menagio of Lake Como, Italy-- a quaint, old village that would dazzle me with stone paths and an abundance of fresh, colorful produce. I was apparently on Mars and obviously quenching familiar luxuries unbeknownst to a crew of 5 sharing 41 ft of space for weeks. As we got closer, I knew this place was different.
From deck, I could see people running about on the beach and a lot of sporadic activity on the water. I sensed no trace of order on that enchanted coast laden with wooden fishing boats and dark, energized bodies. Before I could blink, a smiling man was before me, paddling to us in a canoe and offering to assist us with shopping and finding our way around. Translating, I relayed to him that we would meet him on the beach on our own dinghy. He said he would be waiting and there he stood keeping his word with at least a dozen tiny children. Surely we set the world record for the most hands to pull a boat through the sand. An effortless feat over a hungry tide. It's challenging to describe my reaction to this scene. The children were so thin! I was worried but only wanted to convey love and so I did. They were the hosts of their deserted island town and fully present with no ties to our "real world" except for strange visitors like me, fatefully casts on their shore. The kiddies kept close to Kim and I as we meandered through colorful, humble homes. These shacks were the most basic of shelters and all of them filled with people. Children poured out of front doors, women sat at hand-made tables and played cards, and young men trained their cocks for fighting in my midst. I actually saw a cock fight! Just about everyone had a cock on a leash. The markets were more like concession stands on the porch of a few homes. No signs, no police, no worries. They had hardly anything to sell us besides a branch of bright green bananas and a few bite-sized snickers bars. One of the little boys caught wind of our chocolate and with bright eyes started pleading. There's no way I was going to deny a precious child chocolate so I gave them all I had. Kim was horrified because there was no way the chocolate was going to be enough for them all. The urgency gave me a superhuman confidence that they would actually share. After making the rounds out-of-body, we snapped a few photos, gave our kisses goodbye, shook our number 1 buddy's hand and drifted away. Slowly the town became just as it was. Just in sight and like a dream. One powerful thing caught my eye as I made my final strides out of town: A quote painted on the bare wall of a thus brightened abode. It spoke volumes to me and seemed to be the spirit of Esmeralda.
From deck, I could see people running about on the beach and a lot of sporadic activity on the water. I sensed no trace of order on that enchanted coast laden with wooden fishing boats and dark, energized bodies. Before I could blink, a smiling man was before me, paddling to us in a canoe and offering to assist us with shopping and finding our way around. Translating, I relayed to him that we would meet him on the beach on our own dinghy. He said he would be waiting and there he stood keeping his word with at least a dozen tiny children. Surely we set the world record for the most hands to pull a boat through the sand. An effortless feat over a hungry tide. It's challenging to describe my reaction to this scene. The children were so thin! I was worried but only wanted to convey love and so I did. They were the hosts of their deserted island town and fully present with no ties to our "real world" except for strange visitors like me, fatefully casts on their shore. The kiddies kept close to Kim and I as we meandered through colorful, humble homes. These shacks were the most basic of shelters and all of them filled with people. Children poured out of front doors, women sat at hand-made tables and played cards, and young men trained their cocks for fighting in my midst. I actually saw a cock fight! Just about everyone had a cock on a leash. The markets were more like concession stands on the porch of a few homes. No signs, no police, no worries. They had hardly anything to sell us besides a branch of bright green bananas and a few bite-sized snickers bars. One of the little boys caught wind of our chocolate and with bright eyes started pleading. There's no way I was going to deny a precious child chocolate so I gave them all I had. Kim was horrified because there was no way the chocolate was going to be enough for them all. The urgency gave me a superhuman confidence that they would actually share. After making the rounds out-of-body, we snapped a few photos, gave our kisses goodbye, shook our number 1 buddy's hand and drifted away. Slowly the town became just as it was. Just in sight and like a dream. One powerful thing caught my eye as I made my final strides out of town: A quote painted on the bare wall of a thus brightened abode. It spoke volumes to me and seemed to be the spirit of Esmeralda.
donde hay fe hay amor
donde hay amor hay paz
donde hay paz hay dios
y donde esta Dios no falta nada
where there is faith there is love
where there is love there is peace
where there is peace there is god
and where there is God there is everything
I met a cruiser at the Balboa Yacht Club in Panama who passed on a similar quote to me. One of his children told him this after many years of traveling at a young age:
"Dad, the happiest people in the world that we've ever met are the poorest"
Our passage to Ecuador was glorious, sublime, heavenly! I was lucky to have every sunset and sunrise watch in 3-hour shifts at the helm with complete responsibility of our boat. At night, everyone else is sound asleep and you have thousands of stars to keep you company. The phosphoresces of the water make patterns and I would always look for large illuminated blankets of what I imagined to indicate sea life. Could it be... a whale? A shark? A pod of dolphins? That alone time was so special. All senses enhanced, I've never felt so alive nor so sleepy doing the same task. I listened to podcasts on Kim's ipod (taking a new interest in the Discovery Channel's I Shouldn't Be Alive) and reveled in my music. At times I felt like the queen of the sea, sitting on my thrown with all the world before me. This was a sacred time, too. I made a wish on every shooting star. I'd get hungry on these night watches too. With our rations getting low, my go-to was a handful of raisons and a couple [heaping] spoonfuls of nutella and/or peanut butter. When night falls, everything at sea is magnified. The waves crashing, the wind roaring, and the creaks of our boat amazed me.
**I just learned a bit o'heritage about our boat! One of my fellow cruisers at the Puerto Amistad Yacht Club of Bahia de Caraquez, Ecuador offered me a little history lesson that I will pass on. It is the origin of Victoria's make: Lord Nelson. Once upon a time, there was a little 10 year-old boy who sat upon a wharf and asked a captain to let him sail. The Captain, fearing for the boys' life on such a perilous voyage, hesitated but ultimately honored the young lad's wishes. The boy survived and in time became the Captain's "Lord Nelson" and one of the greatest British Admirals of all time.
Victoria is delightful on the eyes! She came from Taiwan in 1983 (born the same year as your Sirena truly) and is dressed to kill in warm, intricately lain teak from Thailand. She's full of character and her grace is in her age although "practically brand new for a boat", so I've learned. I have an affinity for all things old and striking and she is the most beautiful vessel for the unfolding of my story.
Message in a bottle, thatched bamboo roofs, and giant tortoises!
Catherine
Saturday, March 28
ALIVE AND WELL.
I wanted to do a quick post to let everyone know Catherine's status on her epic voyage. I have heard from her a few times via the emergency internet connection on the boat, she says she really shouldn't be using it- nevertheless she has been emailing me that all is great. They have left the Las Perlas islands (off the coast of Panama) and are heading on a 5-6 day voyage towards Ecuador. She said that this leg of the trip is about 600 miles. I think life on the boat is great and simple. Everyone has their own chores and responsibilities to do. She has taken command of the sunrise watch shift almost every morning from 4-6 am and has even mastered steering the wheel with her feet! I am going to let her tell more in detail when they arrive in Ecuador in a few days.
God speed Cat.
God speed Cat.
Friday, March 20
COMPASS ROSE.
Still in Isla Contadora and setting sail for another island in Las Perlas this afternoon. Kim, Pierre, and I had quite the mission yesterday. Wetsuits on, we plunged into the dark abyss and cleaned as much of the hull of the boat as we could. Hundreds of barnacles sank before my eyes like brilliant sparks aglow against the deep blue water. It was quite the workout with Kim and I comparing ourselves to Navy Seals (ha!). The current was strong and tossing me around. At times, I lost my sense of direction and would flounder until I found the way to oxygen. Patrick and Thomas had fun on the beach and made sand balls that we found intact this morning. The sunsets never fail. Always "marvillosa" with layers of cobalt blue, lavender, scarlet, and flamenco pink. I am proud to say that I was a part of a historic day on Victoria. Yesterday Kim settled down with her first frozen drink in the cockpit since departing in February 2008. Strawberry Banana daqueris all around with a strong breeze and blugrass music freeing a space for endless stories told. She reminds me that sailing isn´t all bliss. It takes hard work to have fun. All the sweat makes the downtime sweet as the homemade piña (pineapple) icecream here.
Wednesday, March 18
PACIFIC PRINCESS IN CONTADORA.
Finally made it to Las Perlas. I let the breeze cool me off from the heat of the day. We are perched in the middle of this splendid island of Contadora. Tis the 'most developed' of all of the Perlas, yet all that awaited our footprints was the velvety, cream sand. We discovered a nearly deserted path lined by strange trees. They were all draped in vines. There were also a few quaint restaurants (all named, 'Romantico').
Sailing is heaven.
I'm hooked.
Tuesday, March 17
BALBOA YACHT CLUB MARINA.
Ah, the time has come to bid farewell to this beautiful paradise. It's been over a week, and just as I am feeling at home, it's time to kiss and hug goodbye. I'm going to miss the Balboa Yacht Club Marina and all of the people that make it a community. Most of my friends here are bronzed men. Old and young. With lines engraved into their skin from a life lived at sea. And big, bright smiles.
Yesterday I took time to relax on one of the yacht club benches beneath the shade of a big, lively tree and watch the sun go down. Slowly, the sky turned peachy red and mango yellow. Mountains were in the distance. Sailboats and cargo ships were in the middle ground. Dark silhouette of branches caught my eyes on the horizon. I meditated on the serene picture before me. I thanked God for you and all of the good swarming around me.
Long runs down the Causeway Amador. Lined with palms, this famous lane was created using earth that was excavated during the making of the Panama Canal.
Getting my Yellow Fever Vaccination in a local clinic with adorable nurses. Juan (my trusty taxi driver) accompanied me for moral support.
Beers with other cruisers (most of them Canadian) at the Yacht Club. Relishing in their tales of foreign lands and of course listening intently to their advice.
All of our rendezvous with Mike, Nicole, and their sons (locals we befriended). We shared dinner parties, poolside visits, and laughter. I know where they live and have already warned them that one of these days Im going to come knocking on their door.
Tour of Cosco Viejo, Panamas Old Town with breaks for fresh Ceviche, Gourmet French Helado (Lavender, Honey, Coconut, Mango-Banana), and chilled cocktails.
Every day, walking to and fro our floating home down the long pier with enthusiastic greetings all along the way. Especially greetings from Angel, the jolly security guard.
Celebrating Saint Patrick's Day! Getting into mischief late last night with Kim to make our Cabin look like the 'Lucky Leprechaun' had been there. Notes scribbled, drawings colored, stuffed animals hung, string strung, and candy scattered throughout. The boys were stoked this morning.
Everyone is wearing green!
Sleeping in the Cockpit with the boys and wishing on a shooting star.
Watching the fireworks every night through the portholes of our boat.
Witnessing Sandra Sandoval in the flesh (a Latina legend). She hypnotizes you with the shake of her booty.
Using cardboard boxes (as instructed by Beau, Lucas, and Alex) to sled down the steep hill in front of the ACP mansion (Panama Canal Administration).
Rising early and waking up slow with my Panama Coffee in hand.
Delighting in all of the people and animals taking 'siestas'. There are countless men in hammocks and kitty cats lounging about everywhere.
Slumbering so deep last night with dreams of my first sail.
We are finally set to leave Panama City and sail to Las Perlas this morning. I am aglow. Keeping y'all close in my heart and present in spirit always.
Cheers!
Catail
Yesterday I took time to relax on one of the yacht club benches beneath the shade of a big, lively tree and watch the sun go down. Slowly, the sky turned peachy red and mango yellow. Mountains were in the distance. Sailboats and cargo ships were in the middle ground. Dark silhouette of branches caught my eyes on the horizon. I meditated on the serene picture before me. I thanked God for you and all of the good swarming around me.
Here are some memories from Panama in no particular order:
Long runs down the Causeway Amador. Lined with palms, this famous lane was created using earth that was excavated during the making of the Panama Canal.
Getting my Yellow Fever Vaccination in a local clinic with adorable nurses. Juan (my trusty taxi driver) accompanied me for moral support.
Beers with other cruisers (most of them Canadian) at the Yacht Club. Relishing in their tales of foreign lands and of course listening intently to their advice.
All of our rendezvous with Mike, Nicole, and their sons (locals we befriended). We shared dinner parties, poolside visits, and laughter. I know where they live and have already warned them that one of these days Im going to come knocking on their door.
Tour of Cosco Viejo, Panamas Old Town with breaks for fresh Ceviche, Gourmet French Helado (Lavender, Honey, Coconut, Mango-Banana), and chilled cocktails.
Every day, walking to and fro our floating home down the long pier with enthusiastic greetings all along the way. Especially greetings from Angel, the jolly security guard.
Celebrating Saint Patrick's Day! Getting into mischief late last night with Kim to make our Cabin look like the 'Lucky Leprechaun' had been there. Notes scribbled, drawings colored, stuffed animals hung, string strung, and candy scattered throughout. The boys were stoked this morning.
Everyone is wearing green!
Sleeping in the Cockpit with the boys and wishing on a shooting star.
Watching the fireworks every night through the portholes of our boat.
Witnessing Sandra Sandoval in the flesh (a Latina legend). She hypnotizes you with the shake of her booty.
Using cardboard boxes (as instructed by Beau, Lucas, and Alex) to sled down the steep hill in front of the ACP mansion (Panama Canal Administration).
Rising early and waking up slow with my Panama Coffee in hand.
Delighting in all of the people and animals taking 'siestas'. There are countless men in hammocks and kitty cats lounging about everywhere.
Slumbering so deep last night with dreams of my first sail.
We are finally set to leave Panama City and sail to Las Perlas this morning. I am aglow. Keeping y'all close in my heart and present in spirit always.
Cheers!
Catail
Thursday, March 12
AMOR DE PANAMA.
I am living on a boat in Panama.
Life is beautiful.
The strong sun melts the days together and the wind breathes life to my soul with every gust and sway of the boat. I finally took the plunge and committed to sailing with my family aboard the lovely Victoria. A life long dream made so easy. All it really took to get me here was saying yes, emphatically! The energy I poured into bidding farewell to my responsibilities and loved ones in Jackson Hole, driving 3 days on end back to Atlanta, and packing the night before take-off was small compared to that which swelled me upon realizing I AM HERE... I AM DOING THIS... I AM SO HAPPY!
Sometime around 2 AM last Tuesday, tucked into my bunk with the full, bright moon visible from the hutch above me I caught up with time and rested with my reality. The boys fast asleep and our cozy and simple quarters feeling just right, I knew that my life would never be the same.
Kim, Pierre, Patrick, and Thomas (my aunt, uncle, and 9 year-old twin cousins) are joyful company. They endlessly fascinate me with their natural grasp on such an unusual lifestyle. Kim and Pierre have been very busy provisioning for our cruise to Las Perlas islands and our upcoming passage to Ecuador as well as tearing apart the boat to make it safe. The boys and I in turn have made a field trip to the zoo, wondered at monsterous cargo ships passing through the Panama Canal at sunset, lounged on the boom in the orange moonlight and survived our first of many Spanish lessons on deck in the noon breeze.
Today I went on my first run up an avenue lined with palms and trees with gorgeous, vibrant blooms of all hues. My favorite tree yet is the Guavacan which bares flowers of the truest yellow. The color is so beautiful that it will change your life with but a catch of the eye. That is just how it draws me in and hold's on my gaze as if I've found heaven itself.
Alas I'm being summoned to authentic simplicity with but blissful dances with the Internet. Sending my love and grace, thankful for your support.
Life is beautiful.
The strong sun melts the days together and the wind breathes life to my soul with every gust and sway of the boat. I finally took the plunge and committed to sailing with my family aboard the lovely Victoria. A life long dream made so easy. All it really took to get me here was saying yes, emphatically! The energy I poured into bidding farewell to my responsibilities and loved ones in Jackson Hole, driving 3 days on end back to Atlanta, and packing the night before take-off was small compared to that which swelled me upon realizing I AM HERE... I AM DOING THIS... I AM SO HAPPY!
Sometime around 2 AM last Tuesday, tucked into my bunk with the full, bright moon visible from the hutch above me I caught up with time and rested with my reality. The boys fast asleep and our cozy and simple quarters feeling just right, I knew that my life would never be the same.
Kim, Pierre, Patrick, and Thomas (my aunt, uncle, and 9 year-old twin cousins) are joyful company. They endlessly fascinate me with their natural grasp on such an unusual lifestyle. Kim and Pierre have been very busy provisioning for our cruise to Las Perlas islands and our upcoming passage to Ecuador as well as tearing apart the boat to make it safe. The boys and I in turn have made a field trip to the zoo, wondered at monsterous cargo ships passing through the Panama Canal at sunset, lounged on the boom in the orange moonlight and survived our first of many Spanish lessons on deck in the noon breeze.
Today I went on my first run up an avenue lined with palms and trees with gorgeous, vibrant blooms of all hues. My favorite tree yet is the Guavacan which bares flowers of the truest yellow. The color is so beautiful that it will change your life with but a catch of the eye. That is just how it draws me in and hold's on my gaze as if I've found heaven itself.
Alas I'm being summoned to authentic simplicity with but blissful dances with the Internet. Sending my love and grace, thankful for your support.
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